{"id":4133,"date":"2026-06-09T16:24:16","date_gmt":"2026-06-09T15:24:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/magazine.asi.info\/?p=4133"},"modified":"2026-06-09T16:25:49","modified_gmt":"2026-06-09T15:25:49","slug":"a-new-view-on-natural","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/magazine.asi.info\/?p=4133","title":{"rendered":"Refining the Framework of Fine Wine"},"content":{"rendered":"

In my glass today\u00a0are\u00a0wines\u00a0that\u00a0even just\u00a0fifteen years ago I might have dismissed\u00a0without trying or certainly sipped with a hint of\u00a0hesitation\u00a0and mistrust.\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

I came\u00a0up\u00a0of age in a wine world defined by certainty. The benchmarks were clear and widely agreed upon.\u00a0A South\u00a0Australia\u00a0Shiraz prized for its bold fruit,\u00a0pepperiness\u00a0and eucalyptus hints. They were big, mouth-filling\u00a0and consistent.\u00a0Napa\u00a0Cabernet Sauvignon spoke in confidence and structure\u00a0with currant and mint notes mingling seamlessly with rich, ripe tannins and moderate acidity. Chardonnay, whether from Burgundy or beyond, carried an expectation of shape,\u00a0texture\u00a0and intent. Then came New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, electrifying in its aromatic clarity\u00a0with a grocery list of aromas that included grapefruit, passion fruit, freshly mown\u00a0grass\u00a0and subtle hints of bell pepper.\u00a0\u00a0These were wines that fit\u00a0neatly\u00a0into the\u00a0grids, exams, typicity charts and,\u00a0perhaps most\u00a0importantly, our collective understanding of what quality\u00a0tasted\u00a0like.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Authenticity, as I was taught, lived within\u00a0very defined\u00a0lines. A wine was true if it reflected its place and grape in a way that aligned with expectation. Precision mattered. Technical correctness mattered. Cleanliness was non-negotiable. If a wine strayed into volatility, reduction,\u00a0Brett\u00a0or anything resembling instability, it was not a curiosity, it was a problem. As sommeliers, our role was to protect the guest from those problems.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Then, somewhere around 2010, the ground\u00a0really\u00a0began to shift.\u00a0What was in the 1990s and early 2000s a subculture reserved for the corners of big cities like New York and Paris, became a global phenomenon.\u00a0The rise of what came to be called natural wine did not arrive as a gentle evolution. It felt, at times, like a rejection. Suddenly, the conversations moved away from what was in the glass to how the wine had been made. Vineyard practices, ambient yeasts, minimal intervention,\u00a0low\u00a0or no sulphur. These were not entirely\u00a0new ideas, but they were being framed as a counterpoint to the very standards many of us had built our careers upon.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

I will admit, my early encounters left me sceptical. There were too many glasses confidently placed in front of me by eager young sommeliers, often with a sense of quiet defiance, as if they were offering\u00a0<\/span>
\naccess to a truth I had somehow missed. And too often, those wines were not convincing. Mousy. Volatile. Unstable. Vins de Pays made \u2018naturally\u2019 presented with the reverence once reserved for the classics. It was difficult not to feel that the pendulum had swung too far, that faults were being reframed as features, and that the discipline of the craft was being dismissed in favour of ideology.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

For a time, I found myself disillusioned. Not by the idea of farming responsibly or fermenting with intention, but by the erosion of a shared language. If everything could be justified by process, where did that leave the glass itself.\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

But something has changed in the last five years.\u00a0The noise has quieted, or\u00a0perhaps I\u00a0and other sommeliers of my generation\u00a0have learned how to listen differently.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

What has\u00a0emerged\u00a0is a clearer distinction between natural wine as an aesthetic and natural wine as a philosophy. The former, at its peak, became a style. Cloudy, edgy, often unpredictable, sometimes compelling, sometimes not.\u00a0Often relying on a colourful label and Instagram campaign.\u00a0The latter,\u00a0however, is something far more enduring. It is a return to farming with respect, to winemaking that\u00a0seeks\u00a0to translate rather than transform, to a restraint that is not about doing less for the sake of\u00a0it, but\u00a0about doing only what is necessary.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

In my glass now, I find wines that carry this philosophy without sacrificing coherence. They may be less polished, but they are not careless. They may be different, but they are not defined by their difference.\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
The natural wine evolution is asking sommeliers to approach a wine’s typicity using a different lens.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As sommeliers, this evolution asks something\u00a0else. What is typicity? What is authenticity? It asks us to expand our understanding of wine.\u00a0To recognise that typicity is not fixed, but neither is it irrelevant. To understand that a wine can be both technically sound and expressive in ways that fall outside the classic moulds. And\u00a0perhaps most\u00a0importantly, it asks us to recalibrate our relationship with fault. Not to excuse it, but to contextualise it.\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

I do not believe the role of the sommelier has changed as much as it has been challenged. We are still here to guide, to interpret, to translate. But the language we use has broadened, and the\u00a0tasting charts we once embraced no longer defined by hard lines. Has this new evolution of \u2018natural\u2019 allowed us to embrace the perfections of imperfections and that personality is better than conformity without having to accept faults as stylistic intent or virtue.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

In my glass, then, is not just\u00a0glasses of\u00a0wine, but a reconciliation.\u00a0It is a reminder\u00a0that what once felt like disruption can, over time, become integration. And that the most interesting place to stand is often not at one end of a spectrum, but somewhere in between, where curiosity is balanced by experience.\u00a0Because in the end, what matters is not whether a wine fits the framework we were taught, but whether we are willing to keep refining that framework, glass by glass.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Danish-born Frank Cornelissen, once a poster child of ‘natural’ has edited his philosophy and approach to better showcase his terroir.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Frank Cornelissen\u00a0MunJebel\u00a0Etna\u00a0Rosso\u00a0Classico DOP<\/a>\u00a0(Etna, Italy)<\/span>
\nMy first experiences with Cornelissen\u2019s wines were a bit wilder, more tannic, but now there is a\u00a0more focused\u00a0fruit-forward energy.<\/span><\/p>\n

Niepoort\u00a0Dialogo\u00a0Branco Douro DOC<\/a> (Douro, Portugal)\u00a0<\/span>
\nA wonderfully curious blend of varietals that delivers freshness, earthiness and salinity with a bite.<\/span><\/p>\n

Remelluri\u00a0Rioja\u00a0Reserva\u00a0DOCa<\/a>\u00a0(Rioja, Spain)<\/span>
\nFrom a region known for its oak-aging, this wine seems avoid wood distractions while keeping its Rioja integrity in place.\u00a0\u00a0Fruity, herbal, earthy and sumptuous.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In my glass today\u00a0are\u00a0wines\u00a0that\u00a0even just\u00a0fifteen years ago I might have dismissed\u00a0without trying or certainly sipped with a hint of\u00a0hesitation\u00a0and mistrust.\u00a0\u00a0 I came\u00a0up\u00a0of age in a wine world defined by certainty. The benchmarks were clear and widely agreed upon.\u00a0A South\u00a0Australia\u00a0Shiraz prized for its bold fruit,\u00a0pepperiness\u00a0and eucalyptus hints. They were big, mouth-filling\u00a0and consistent.\u00a0Napa\u00a0Cabernet Sauvignon spoke in confidence […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":4136,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[29,66],"tags":[236,209,238,46,56,45],"coauthors":[41],"class_list":["post-4133","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-in-my-glass","category-uncategorized-en","tag-cornelissen","tag-natural","tag-niepoort","tag-sommelier","tag-sommellerie","tag-wine"],"blocksy_meta":[],"yoast_head":"\nRefining the Framework of Fine Wine - Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Sommelier and ASI Magazine Editor Mark DeWolf gives his insights on the evolution of the natural wine movement.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/magazine.asi.info\/?p=4133\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Refining the Framework of Fine Wine - 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