The Cellar Master\u2019s Trilogy<\/em>), compos\u00e9e de trois Single Harvest Tawny Ports, capture trois moments particuliers du parcours unique du Porto, le plus ancien datant de plus de 60 ans. Cette trilogie rend hommage au savoir-faire, \u00e0 l\u2019exp\u00e9rience et \u00e0 l\u2019artisanat perfectionn\u00e9s au fil des g\u00e9n\u00e9rations par quelques personnes seulement, chacune investie de la responsabilit\u00e9 de fa\u00e7onner les Portos prim\u00e9s de Graham\u2019s.<\/p>\nLa maison de Porto vient d\u2019annoncer un nouveau chapitre de cette histoire avec le lancement de Graham\u2019s 1979 Single Harvest Tawny Port. Prenant la rel\u00e8ve du mill\u00e9sime 1974 sous le nom de \u00ab The Artisan \u00bb, le 1979 rejoint \u00ab The Apprentice \u00bb 1997 et \u00ab The Master \u00bb 1961. Ces trois Portos remarquables t\u00e9moignent de la puissance extraordinaire d\u2019un long \u00e9levage sous bois conduit avec soin.<\/p>\n
Il y a pr\u00e8s de cinq d\u00e9cennies, le 1979 avait \u00e9t\u00e9 s\u00e9lectionn\u00e9 pour un \u00e9levage de longue dur\u00e9e par Peter Symington, alors chef de cave et ma\u00eetre assembleur de Graham\u2019s, repr\u00e9sentant la troisi\u00e8me g\u00e9n\u00e9ration de la famille. Aujourd\u2019hui, 47 ans plus tard, son fils et successeur, Charles, a choisi de mettre en bouteille huit f\u00fbts sous le nom de \u00ab The Artisan \u00bb.<\/p>\n
Apr\u00e8s avoir pass\u00e9 pr\u00e8s d\u2019un demi-si\u00e8cle \u00e0 vieillir dans des f\u00fbts de ch\u00eane ayant d\u00e9j\u00e0 servi, au Graham\u2019s 1890 Lodge, \u00e0 Vila Nova de Gaia, le 1979 Single Harvest Tawny Port a \u00e9volu\u00e9 progressivement, d\u00e9veloppant de superbes couches de complexit\u00e9 tout en conservant la fra\u00eecheur et l\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9gance caract\u00e9ristiques des plus grands Tawny Ports \u00e2g\u00e9s. Au cours de ces d\u00e9cennies pass\u00e9es au Graham\u2019s 1890 Lodge, environ la moiti\u00e9 du volume initial du vin s\u2019est \u00e9vapor\u00e9e \u2014 un ph\u00e9nom\u00e8ne \u00e9galement appel\u00e9 \u00ab la part des anges \u00bb \u2014 donnant naissance \u00e0 une concentration remarquable.<\/p>\n
La d\u00e9gustation du 1979 est une exp\u00e9rience m\u00e9morable. D\u00e8s l\u2019ouverture, ses ar\u00f4mes s\u00e9duisants de caramel au beurre, de toffee et de ch\u00e8vrefeuille emplissent imm\u00e9diatement la pi\u00e8ce. En bouche, il se r\u00e9v\u00e8le ample et soyeux, avec des saveurs d\u2019agrumes \u00e9clatantes et des notes envo\u00fbtantes de noix, de coing, de th\u00e9 et de tabac.<\/p>\n
Sa longue finale persistante \u00e9voque la noix de muscade et le th\u00e9, ultime cadeau d\u2019un vin merveilleux qui parvient \u00e0 \u00e9quilibrer la complexit\u00e9 et les nuances apport\u00e9es par l\u2019\u00e2ge avec l\u2019intensit\u00e9 d\u2019une palette aromatique particuli\u00e8rement riche.<\/p>\n
Charles Symington, producteur de Porto de quatri\u00e8me g\u00e9n\u00e9ration et chef de cave de Graham\u2019s, explique :<\/p>\n
\u00ab Un vin comme le 1979 nous rappelle merveilleusement que le vieillissement du Porto rel\u00e8ve \u00e0 la fois de l\u2019art et de la pratique. Nous suivons attentivement l\u2019\u00e9volution de nos vins, mais il n\u2019existe aucun moment magique o\u00f9 ils seraient soudainement \u201cpr\u00eats\u201d. C\u2019est \u00e0 nous qu\u2019il appartient de porter ce jugement. \u00bb<\/p>\n
\u00ab The Artisan \u00bb rend hommage aux artisans qui ont veill\u00e9, au fil des g\u00e9n\u00e9rations, sur des vins comme le 1979, en comprenant non seulement leur qualit\u00e9, mais aussi leur parcours de vieillissement unique. Le r\u00f4le du chef de cave de Graham\u2019s consiste \u00e0 identifier les vins pr\u00e9sentant un potentiel particulier \u2014 comme l\u2019a fait Peter Symington apr\u00e8s les vendanges de 1979 \u2014, \u00e0 suivre leur \u00e9volution en f\u00fbt de ch\u00eane et, finalement, \u00e0 poss\u00e9der les connaissances, la confiance et l\u2019exp\u00e9rience n\u00e9cessaires pour reconna\u00eetre le moment opportun de leur mise en bouteille.<\/p>\n
La d\u00e9cision de Charles de mettre le 1979 en bouteille pr\u00e8s d\u2019un demi-si\u00e8cle plus tard confirme la pertinence du choix initial de Peter, qui avait d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de r\u00e9server ce vin \u00e0 un long \u00e9levage. \u00ab The Artisan \u00bb, tout comme la trilogie du ma\u00eetre de chai dans son ensemble, exprime la continuit\u00e9, l\u2019exp\u00e9rience et la patience qui sont au c\u0153ur de l\u2019\u00e9levage et de l\u2019accompagnement de ces vins.<\/p>\n
Charles Symington poursuit :<\/p>\n
\u00ab Apr\u00e8s presque un demi-si\u00e8cle, le 1979 a atteint un stade o\u00f9 sa complexit\u00e9, sa fra\u00eecheur et son \u00e9l\u00e9gance sont admirablement \u00e9quilibr\u00e9es. C\u2019est cette harmonie qui fait de lui une expression si convaincante de l\u2019\u00e9tape \u201cThe Artisan\u201d de la trilogie du ma\u00eetre de chai. \u00bb<\/p>\n
Pour les sommeliers, les Single Harvest Tawny Ports de Graham\u2019s offrent une perspective fascinante sur le temps. Ils racontent non seulement l\u2019histoire d\u2019un mill\u00e9sime unique dans la vall\u00e9e du Douro \u2014 berceau de la r\u00e9gion viticole du Haut-Douro, inscrite au patrimoine mondial de l\u2019UNESCO \u2014, mais aussi celle des d\u00e9cennies qui suivent et de l\u2019\u00e9volution progressive du vin en f\u00fbt au Graham\u2019s 1890 Lodge.<\/p>\n
\u00ab The Apprentice \u00bb, \u00ab The Artisan \u00bb et \u00ab The Master \u00bb ne sont pas de simples appellations : elles refl\u00e8tent la progression du savoir et de l\u2019expertise au fil du temps, transmis entre coll\u00e8gues et de p\u00e8re en fils.<\/p>\n
Graham\u2019s 1979 Single Harvest Tawny Port est d\u00e9sormais disponible \u00e0 l\u2019unit\u00e9 ainsi que dans le coffret complet The Cellar Master\u2019s Trilogy Collection<\/em>, comprenant les Single Harvest Tawny Ports \u00ab The Apprentice \u00bb 1997, \u00ab The Artisan \u00bb 1979 et \u00ab The Master \u00bb 1961.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Le temps peut accomplir des choses remarquables \u2014 entre de bonnes mains. Outre les Vintage Ports de Graham\u2019s, les Tawny Ports \u00e2g\u00e9s de cette maison bicentenaire comptent parmi les vins qui exigent la plus grande patience, beaucoup n\u00e9cessitant plusieurs d\u00e9cennies d\u2019\u00e9levage pour atteindre leur plein potentiel. La trilogie du ma\u00eetre de chai (The Cellar Master\u2019s […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":4492,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[206,174,184],"tags":[],"coauthors":[106],"class_list":["post-4495","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-nouvelles-de-lindustrie","category-partenaires","category-tendance"],"blocksy_meta":[],"yoast_head":"\n
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Outre les Vintage Ports de Graham\u2019s, les Tawny Ports \u00e2g\u00e9s de cette maison bicentenaire comptent parmi les vins qui exigent la plus grande patience, beaucoup n\u00e9cessitant plusieurs d\u00e9cennies d\u2019\u00e9levage pour atteindre leur plein potentiel. 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