As the year winds down, I find myself lingering a little longer with each glass, letting it hold not just aromas and flavours, but the memory of the conversations that shaped the past twelve months of ASI Magazine. It’s been a year of generosity: of time, of insight, and of spirit. As I look back, I can’t help but picture what it would be like to gather some of my favourite interviewees around a table, sharing a meal that’s as layered and expressive as the people who inspired me issue after issue.
I imagine starting the evening with Cokie Ponikvar (ASI Magazine, Issue #23) whose youthful energy, intellect and quiet confidence reminded me of a time in my own life when life was still what I wanted to make of it. Across from her would be Dr. Laura Catena (ASI Magazine, Issue #19), a force of nature in the best possible way. I reflect on our conversation quite often, as her determination, self-confident yet pragmatic approach to business and home life resonated with me. I entered that interview looking for an inspiring story of a woman who broke barriers in the wine industry. I entered that interview expecting a story about breaking barriers in wine; I left with a lesson in leadership that transcends profession, gender, and industry.
Somewhere in the middle of the table might be Marc Pinto MS (ASI Magazine, Issue #23). I love interviews when a simple question leads the interviewee on a life journey. Marc’s story is one of perseverance and determination. A journey that took him from the lowest rungs of hospitality to the heights of sommellerie. A journey defined by a relentless and unwavering pursuit of a goal. It was a career path that took him abroad before a return to his home of Portugal allowed him to reconnect to his past, and to the wines of his home.
I didn’t quite know what to expect for an interview I had with Dirceu Vianna Junior MW (A Sommelier’s Insight Podcast, Season 2, Episode 7) about Vinho Verde. To become a Master of Wine requires a certain cerebral acumen, which at times can lead to conversations that are thoughtful, intellectual, but occasionally soulless. I found Dirceu remarkably grounded and real. Our discussion of Vinho Verde was a positive and honest exploration into the current and future state of an appellation that has metamorphosed into one of the world’s most exciting white wine producing regions but still sitting on the cusp of acceptance into the premium fine wine world.
And then there’s the inspirational story of Samira Kakh (ASI Magazine, Issue #24), an Iranian woman who has embraced the cultural history of Persian wine and has overcome societal norms to follow her passion for wine. I had prepared for one story based on my own western bias of what I assumed an Iranian born and raised Muslim woman would be like. I came out a better person, with a more layered view on Iranian society, and with the knowledge that passion and determination can transcend all.
Amuse Bouche:
Guest: Cokie Ponikvar
Dish: Oysters on the Half Shell
Pairing: A trio of traditional method sparkling wines
When you are young and have everything ahead of you there is an English phrase “the world’s your oyster.” Apropos for Cokie, who life’s journey is just starting, albeit at a frantic pace. In the interview, I came to learn her brother lives in Nova Scotia, where I do. The obvious pairing are Nova Scotia oysters paired with one of favourite Nova Scotia sparkling wines, Lightfoot & Wolfville Blanc de Blancs, which, like Cokie, is full of energy and promise. Of course, knowing Cokie, we’d have not only that wine, but a couple others such as a Champagne, and Franciacorta. With Cokie we would taste them blind and chat about techniques to separate them out on a blind tasting exam.
First Course
Guest: Dirceu Vianna Junior MW
Dish: White Beans with Anchovy, Roasted Garlic, White Miso EVOO emulsion, Shio-kōji Roasted Enoki Mushrooms
Pairing: Vintage Vinho Verde from Monção e Melgaço sub-region
I found Dirceu Vianna Junior MW to be both complex but also slightly unexpected. I can imagine that if coming to a dinner party he might bring something the guests would not expect such as vintage Vinho Verde. I can imagine something slightly unexpected on the plate. A dish that would blend Portuguese tradition with some umami-rich Japanese flavours to find harmony with the developed notes in the wine.
Second Course
Guest:Dr. Laura CatenaDish: Pan-Roasted Trout, Muña-Muña Scented Amaranth
Pairing: Catena Zapata Chardonnay
The Catena family were pioneers of high elevation vineyard plantings in Mendoza. Dr. Laura’s commitment to promoting biodiversity and embracing her Andes terroir, would be reflected in the dish I’d pair. Trout was introduced to the Argentine Andes over the last two hundred years. Like grape vines, they aren’t indigenous but now a natural part of the ecosystem. I would serve this over Muña-Muña (like wild mint) infused Amaranth (a native Andes grain). A simple dish but rooted in high-elevation terroir.
Main Course
Guest: Samira Kakh
Dish: Shirin Polo with Lamb (Iranian rice dish topped with braised lamb) with pistachios
Pairing: Iranian Alicante
In my interview with Samira, I was surprised to learn there is an underground distillation and winemaking tradition. Her father and brother make wine with Alicante, which Samira describes as being in a fruit-forward style, as there are no oak barrels available for aging. I can imagine standing over a stove chatting with Samira as we add orange peel, dried fruits, nuts and spices. Topped with some simple braised lamb and a finishing touch of pistachios, which her family harvests.
Dessert
Guest: Marc Pinto MS
Dish: Bolo de Azeite (Olive Oil Cake)
Wine: Moscatel do Douro During my discussion with Marc Pinto, we chatted about his own journey revisiting the wines of Portugal since his return to Lisbon after years living on the other side of the border. I can imagine Marc serving a wine that reflects the history and traditions of Portugal but perhaps not the most expected. A dessert wine such as a Moscatel do Douro reflects this. I am not a baker per se, but I love making olive oil cake. I can imagine making one with olive oil from the Douro and when it comes out of the oven pouring some of the Moscatel over the cake to infuse it with citrus and apricot flavours.
